It is important to try and understand the cultural background of Cambodia and not get too judgmental about the differences between the local and our western cultures. This is a country that not that long ago suffered an intellectual purge under Pol Pott. He targeted intellectuals, teachers, doctors, bankers, industrialists, even people with glasses. Estimates differ but somewhere around 1 in 4 adults were killed before he was forced to retreat into the mountains. The following observations are not meant as criticism or to imply any sense of western superiority, simply things that I noticed that are different than what I'm accustomed to.
Roads
Once you leave a major city there are very few signs. There are more and better paved roads than I was expecting. There is a huge road construction boom going on. Everywhere we went they were building new roads, or repairing roads that weren't built good enough the first time. We have a pretty nice map we bought in country but are often struggling to match where we are to what we see on the map. The maps on our phones are almost a joke, they only have the major highways and major cities. We rely exclusively on our local partners in Transform Asia to know where to go and how to get there, and they rely heavily on the ability to ask for directions!
Traffic
Honking. They honk so much! I've been struggling to understand all of the reasons why. In my first day in country, I'm certain our driver Mao, honked more than I have in my entire life... The one that I've figured out is when you pass someone, you honk three times. It feels like we are passing someone almost constantly, we share the road with everything from massive trucks, a few cars and busses, farm tractors, lots of small motorcycles, tuk-tuks, bicycles and even some cows and water buffalo. Every traffic convention we are used to, means nothing here. I still have no idea how intersections work, but I'm certain the stop signs, center lines, and traffic lights are mostly just decorative elements.
Motorcycles and Bicycles
This is how almost everyone gets around. The motos (as they are called) are more like what we would call a moped. The things people are able to tie on to and or pull with them continue to astound me. It's also very common to see three or more people on a single moto. Accidents are common and deadly. You can tell how an area is doing by looking at the ratio of motos to bicycles
Food
Lots of rice and noodles. A decent selection of meats. The vegetables are almost always overcooked by our standards. A local delicacy is fresh corn that is steamed over the fire for 10 hours! My favorite meal is breakfast. An omelet that you eat with French bread.
Tractors
Cambodia has been desperately trying to modernize and mechanize, especially its farms. To try and increase output and feed more of its people. Since most farmers are very very poor they can't afford a large western style tractor. Solution: only sell half the tractor.
Shops
There are so many little street side stands, most only selling a few things. Fried rats and cigarettes. Watermelon and gasoline. Bottled water, corn and an air compressor to fill your tires. Especially once you get out of the city it seems that most houses are running some sort of small stand.
Water
Staying hydrated is obviously a big deal. It is usually around 95 degrees with 90% humidity. We sweat, ALOT! Almost everyone, even the locals, drink bottled water. It's the only reliably clean source of drinking water. We travel with cases and cases of water in our vans. The Dr. that's traveling with us on the trip has been really pushing us to drink. Thankfully the worst we've had is some minor heat rash. We also use special rehydration packs we use to help replenish the salts we sweat out. Most houses and building have tanks on the roof or the ground to store rainwater.
Bathrooms
Almost everywhere we went there were western style toilets available. Many required a bucket of water for flushing. The squaty-potties are still around, but less and less common. One thing that took some getting used to is bathroom layout. Perhaps in the name of efficiency, everything is often in one room. Stalls for women on one wall, stalls for men on another, urinals and sinks. The private bathrooms in the guest houses follow a similar principal. The shower is just in the corner, there is no separate bathtub or even a curtain between it and toilet and sink.
Misc Things
- A brand new beautiful playground, with a big play structure, slides, merry-go-round, even the special rubber mats, it wouldn't be out of place in any park in America. EXCEPT it was built in the median of a busy divided highway...
- While there are plenty of recognizable gas stations, there are probably 15 times as many roadside stands selling gas in old coke bottles. This is where most of the motorcycles get their gas. It's also a good idea to be able to see what your putting your tank, to make sure it's good quality.
- There is trash everywhere, at least near towns. I've seen some recycling places, and there is the occasional trash can, but there is still trash everywhere.
- Vehicles parked in the roadway is very common. Mostly just motos, so it doesn't affect traffic too much. Besides, if you leave the road you might get stuck. The most extreme example I saw, was a pickup truck up on blocks and missing its rear axel, just sitting in the road.
- Power poles in cities and towns, have more individual cables attached than I've ever seen! Sometimes hundreds! Often the power pole will host multiple breaker panels and power meters as well.
Lots of these single axel tractors, working the fields, hauling people and supplies:
Street scene from Ratanakiri
Lots of trash:
A stand selling hats and moto fuel:
